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I observed this phenomenon over 3.000 rpm (for example: if freewheeling to the next junction.) Unfortunately in the current A/F calibration in some cases the engine speed goes under the 850 rpm idle speed (maybe 750 rpm or so) and the ECU compensates and it rise up to 1.000 rpm before it slows down to the correct idle speed of 850 rpm. The engine does not stall but its drop very quick to the idle speed (in my case) of 850 rpm without break on 1.600 / 2.000 and goes slowly to the idle speed. I am looking for tuning the idle speed but the only setting I found is the idle section in the calibration. This will stop the vehicle from using excess fuel / emissions and producing loud noises while idling.I hope you understand what I mean and I hope you can support me. At Grimmer Motors, we can diagnose and repair your vehicle, preventing the idling problem from continuing.

Is your car idling too fast, roughly or loudly? If so, there could be a complicated problem that needs fixing. If the electrical load detection circuit fails, then the signal to the engine ECU might be to permanently increase the engine RPM even without increased electrical load, meaning the engine idle RPM when warm becomes too high. To compensate for this drop in idle rpm, the electrical load detection circuit signals the engine ECU to increase the engine rpm, by changing the settings to the idle air control valve. This is because these extra electrical loads take extra energy from the engines alternator, which can slow the engine rpm down. The electrical load detection circuit is designed to send a signal to the engine ECU when additional electrical loads are activated on the vehicle electrical system. Electrical load detection (ELD) circuit fault If the engines coolant temperature sensor fails, then the engine electronic control unit (ECU) may think the engine is still cold and keep the engine rpm high, by commanding the idle air control valve appropriately. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor failure In order to keep a healthy balance of fuel and oxygen, more fuel will be added, resulting in a loud, rough idle. If a vacuum leak occurs, extra oxygen will enter the vehicle. This can result in a rich fuel mixture, causing the engine to idle roughly. If the sensors send incorrect signals to the computer, an excess amount of fuel or air may be added to the engine. If this fuse blows, the valve will not receive any power, causing it to not work at all. The idle control valve is connected to a fuse. Over time, the valve or its control circuit can fail, causing the engine to run at high rpm when the car is idling. The idle control valve ensures that the engine runs at the correct level while idling. This is sometimes accompanied by shaking.Ĭlunks / jerks into gear – if your vehicle has an automatic transmission, it may clunk, jerk or bang into drive / gear if the engine is idling too fast.Ī high idle level can point to several different problems. Loud engine – A faster revving engine will produce much more noise when your car is idling. This is because when you are idling, the car’s engine is still using fuel. Increased fuel consumption – You may find that driving uses more fuel than normal, especially if you are stuck in traffic and idling a lot. Therefore you must know your engine size before determining if your warm engine rpm is correct.

While a 5L (5000 cc) V8 engine might have a warn engine idle speed of 550 rpm. The general rule is the larger the engine size the slower the engine idle rpm should be, For example a 1 liter (1000 cc) engine might have a normal warm idle speed of 850 rpm. If your car’s RPM is above 900 with a warm engine while idling, it is likely using too much fuel. For most 2 liter and below sized engines the vehicles, the standard idle speed should be around 750 RPM (when the engine is warm). High RPM – Idle speed is measured in revolutions per minute (RPM).